A Path of Wolves
HIKING TO CAPE WRATH
Read time 6 mins
When cartographer Timothy Pont drew the first map of the Scottish Highlands in the 16th Century, he was too afraid to set foot on Cape Wrath. He marked the area ‘extreem wilderness’ and ‘a path of woolfs’ and left the map blank. Five centuries later, the last wolf has gone, but this most northerly point of mainland Britain remains a cloud-bound land that resists settlement and is regarded with awe and foreboding.
Most people visit Cape Wrath for the day, taking the boat and minibus from the car park at Keoldale. But a more rewarding journey is to walk from Kinlochbevie, up the winding path to the beach at Sandwood Bay, and across the open moorland to Cape Wrath lighthouse. A route which allows you to slowly soak up the ancient atmosphere of one of the wildest places in Britain.
Sandwood Bay is a majestic beach that can only be accessed on foot or by boat. Sitting on the beach in the morning mist, it is easy to imagine Vikings landing their longboats here to seek shelter from storms. Indeed, Sandwood takes its name from the old norse word Sandvatn, meaning sand-water.
East from Sandwood Bay, across the dunes, lies Strathchaillleach Bothy, whose rough interior walls are covered in colourful folk art depicting mermaids and Vikings. The murals were painted by the bothy’s former inhabitant James McRory Smith, known as ‘The Hermit of Sandwood Bay’, and set an air of myth and mystery for the walk that lies ahead, over rough moorland to Cape Wrath.
Following the coastal path North, brings you to a fence that marks the beginning of the army live firing range, which covers most of the land around Cape Wrath. If the red warning flag is not flying, it’s safe to cross.
Make your way across the open moorland, keeping close to the sea on your left, breathing the clear ocean air. Above you are gannets circling, cloud may be low, sea is crashing on the cliffs below. Progress over this wild terrain requires a certain degree of psychologogical resilience calm over the 11 miles until you catch your first glimpse of the lighthouse, where food, shelter and company await. Where you can awake at 3am and find her wandering around in the the lighthouses beacons of light. and mud over the fact that the essence of certain places like this does not change from century to century.
Photography notes: Fuji GFX 50RPRACTICALITIES
Walking to Cape Wrath from Kinlochbervie
I walked the route as an ‘out and back’ – staying the night at Cape Wrath Lighthouse and returning the next day.
Park your car at Blairmore Car Park – which is run by the John Muir Trust. Follow the path to the spectacular beach at Sandwood Bay (4 miles). From Sandwood Bay walk north to Cape Wrath lighthouse (11 miles), keeping the sea on your left, until you join the rough road just before the lighthouse. The route from Sandwood Bay is over rough moorland and does not always follow a path. A compass, a map, GPX file and a sense of adventure are recommended. The route from Sandwood Bay to Cape Wrath is an atmospheric and remote walk for experienced walkers only.
Important: check the times for the military firing range here before planning your walk. You cannot enter the firing zone if the red flag is up.
Walk Highlands has a summary of the walk to Sandwood Bay here
Be sure to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code while you visit
Note: If you don’t have a car it is still possible to do the walk by catching the #806 Far North Bus from Durness to Kinlochbervie and walking up to Blairmore Car Park.
Taking the boat and bus from Durness to Cape Wrath
The boat goes from a car park at Keoldale and links up with a minibus service at the other side. The journey to Cape Wrath lighthouse is an adventure in itself. The road is remote and passes through a British military firing range, you may see wild Deer on the way.
Full details of the Boat and bus service are on the Cape Wrath visitor Website. You can visit as a day trip or stay overnight at Cape Wrath Lighthouse. During the summer it is is advisable to book ahead.
Staying at Cape Wrath lighthouse
There is a basic cafe and bunkhouse accommodation at the Cape Wrath lighthouse. I took a tent and camped by the lighthouse for a small fee. I did not book ahead and received a warm welcome at the cafe.
All information is from my personal experience and may change. Please do your own research and make your decisions based on your personal preferences and abilities.
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