Tibet Travel Guide
THE TIBET AUTONOMOUS REGION, KHAM AND AMDO
3 Minute read
“Europe wants like anything to go to Tibet; but Tibet has never evinced the slightest desire to go to Europe.”
Peter Fleming
Tibet has long exercised a hold on the Western imagination – the very image of a mysterious Himalayan sanctuary and a realm of ancient learning.
Despite the establishment of the Tibet Autonomous Region by China in 1950, one can still witness ancient Buddhist rites amid snow-capped mountains, creaking prayer wheels, lush green pastures and and fluttering prayer flags.
For me, there is still something otherworldly about Tibet, and it remains one of my greatest travel experiences.
This concise guide unravels the logistics and red-tape of planning a visit to Tibet.
Which Tibet do you want to visit?
From the point of view of the traveller, Tibet is split into two areas: the Tibet Autonomous Region(TAR) and the regions of Kham and Amdo, which lie outside it.
To travel within the Tibet Autonomous Region – where legendary places such as Lhasa and Mt. Kailash are – you must apply for a Tibet Travel Permit and join an organised group tour. The TAR zone is heavily regulated by the Chinese authorities, so there will be little freedom to deviate from the tour, you will not be allowed to discuss political or sensitive issues with your guide and he/she will not be allowed to speak freely to you. Many visitors report that they were monitored by cameras inside the car and had their bags scanned multiple times a day.
The large swathe of the Tibetan Plateau that lies outside the Tibet Autonomous Region is largely taken up by the Amdo and Kham regions. If you are traveling in these regions, you will not need a Tibet Travel Permit and can travel solo, or in a group of your choosing, with a Tibetan guide who can speak freely and help you to set your itinerary. When I travelled in Kham I hired a Tibetan guide and driver, who introduced me to incredible people and situations that would not have been possible on an organised tour in the Tibet Autonomous Region. I was able to ride on motorcycles with nomads, meditate with monks, have lunch with a High Lama, and witness ceremonies normally off limits to Western visitors.
As you’ve probably guessed, my preference was to visit the Kham or Amdo regions of Tibet. But the information on this page will help you to decide which region to visit yourself. The ideal solution, of course, would be to visit multiple regions, if you can afford the time and have deep enough pockets.
Why go to the Tibet Autonomous Region?
Visit legendary places such as Lhasa, which is home to the Potala Palace, Mt. Kailash, Gyantse, Shigatse, and Mt. Everest.
Visit on an organised tour with a Tibet Travel Permit.
To witness several of Tibet’s most important annual festivals, including the holy Saga Dawa Festival in June, and the Nagqu Horse Racing Festival in August, which takes place in the grasslands of northern Tibet.
Why go to Kham and Amdo Regions?
To travel more independently and to be able to set your itinerary – away from organised tours and the regulations imposed within the Tibet Autonomous Region.
The Kham and Amdo regions can provide an authentic experience of Tibetan nomadic life. I stayed with nomads in their winter residencies and in traditional Yak hair tents in the hills.
To visit sacred places such as the centuries-old Derge Printing House where many ancient Buddhist manuscripts are kept; Dzongsar Monastery, home of two sacred meditation caves and thirteen secret termas were concealed; Yilhun Lhatso, a sacred lake with a kora circular kora route around it; Yarchen Gar, where thousands of ramshackle homes sit clustered at the bend of a river, each one occupied by a nun who sits in solitary meditation.
To travel without the need for a Tibet Travel Permit.
Should you go?
The People's Republic of China (PRC), which annexed Tibet in 1950, claims that Tibet is now an integral part of China. The Tibetan government-in-exile, led by the Dalai Lama, maintains that Tibet is a state under unlawful occupation.
The Ethics of visiting Tibet are a personal matter. As a practising Zen Buddhist, I took the advice of the Dalai Lama, who has encouraged people to visit Tibet as it supports those Tibetans living under the Chinese regime. Visiting means contributing to the preservation of Tibetan culture and experiencing forms of Buddhism unique to Tibet.
How to go Hiring a guide and a driver is essential to travel independently in Kham and Amdo, as there is no public transport. Joining a group tour is another option, and is a necessity for travel in the Tibet Autonomous Region. I would recommend using a Tibetan guide or company as this provides an authentic experience and puts money directly into the hands of the Tibetans.
Getting there You can fly to Lhasa from many Chinese cities as Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Xi’an, and Shanghai. International travelers can fly to Lhasa from Kathmandu. You can also take the train from Beijing to Lhasa, which departs every day. For Kham and Amdo you can fly to Yushu regional airport from Chengdu in China.
Getting around Travel is by car as there is no public transport. Some roads in remote areas are unsurfaced, but drivable in a regular Chinese car.
When to go June to October is the Summer season in Tibet, the roads will be free of snow and temperatures will be pleasant. Tibet can be closed to international travellers in mid-February and March for the Tibetan New Year (Losar).
Where to stay Hotels in Tibet are not comparable to hotels in the West, but I found them comfortable enough. Many monasteries offer accommodation and food – eating breakfast with monks in the dining room can be a wonderful experience. In villages and rural areas, guesthouses are rustic, hot water is unavailable, and there may be no private bathrooms. The winter residences of the nomads that I stayed with had guest bedrooms, but no running water inside the houses and a composting toilet outside.In remote places we camped in the compounds of local families, depending on your itinerary, you may need bring a sleeping mat and sleeping bag.
What to Eat? The staple food in Tibet is Tsamba – ground barley flour with salty butter tea added to form a dough. Often sugar is added to give it a sweet taste. Yak butter tea is a famous part of the Tibetan diet, using butter made by nomads using traditional wooden churns. The Tibetan diet is based around Yak meat, usually eaten boiled or dried with not much variation. However, I managed to eat a vegetarian diet by eating mostly Tsamba, rice, and noodles.
Buy Singing bowls, Dzi beads, Tibetan handmade rugs, wooden bowls, Buddha statues, prayer flags, and incense.
Currency Chinese Yuan
Visas Required by all visitors. UK citizens need to visit a China passport office in person (London and Manchester)
Mobile Phone coverage: You can buy a local China SIM card in Tibet.
Language Tibetan. Chinese. English is not widely spoken.
Cost Guide/tour cost is reasonable. Food is cheap at 40-100Y per person per day (£4-10) if you eat at local restaurants. In remote places there are few restaurants but monasteries will always provide food for a small donation.
Pack Warm clothes: the Tibetan Plateau is at a high altitude, where ithe air is thin and it can be cold. Temperatures during the day are around 30c in summer, but can drop to 10c at night. The Tibetan Plateau can also be dusty so perhaps take a scarf or face mask to avoid your throat drying out (as many Tibetans do). Ultraviolet rays on the plateau are very strong, so bring Sunscreen SPF50+. Don't forget to bring sunglasses and a hat.
Anything else? Take Cash as cashpoints can be difficult to find in Tibet. Google will not function in Tibet/China. There is an official Chinese search engine but it is of very limited use. Take all the information you might need before travelling. A guidebook is a good idea – I used the Bradt Guide to Tibet.
WhatsApp will not work in Tibet / China. Download WeChat, the Chinese alternative, before you arrive.
Many areas of Tibet are at high altitude, Lhasa is at 3,656 metres. Yushu airport is at 4000 metres. It is essential to stay hydrated and not to do anything too strenuous until your body adapts. Take plenty of headache pills along and read up on how to avoid altitude sickness.
Contacts: I have heard good reports of SnowLion Tours, a Tibetan-owned company that does trips to TAR, Kham and Amdo. Also worth a look is Tibet Highland Tours, based in Lhasa, which is the first Tibet travel agency owned by a woman - Ms. Acha Dechen.
Further resources See the latest China travel advice on Gov.uk
Note: I have not travelled with SnowLion Tours or Tibet Highland Tours, and do not have any affiliation with them.
Please use this information as a starting point and check the latest travel information.
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